Day 9 - 388 Miles

I decided to sleep in, but woke up anyway because I failed to close the drapes last night. I had thought about just punching up the "go home" button on the GPS, and specifying "avoid interstates". I google mapped a bit, but the thought ran through my head of last year leaving Lake Tahoe finally starting my ~3100 mile return journey towards home thinking: Oh hell, now I have to drive home.

My better senses took over and I decided to take the most direct route towards I-85 and head home. I'm not sure I actually did take the most direct route, but I got there within a hour anyway. I don't particularly care to drive on the interstates, mostly due to inattentive drivers grossly exceeding the speed limits, not to mention, my scooter has been hitting the rev limiter on this trip around 78mph. I can't always get away from the idiots.

The trip was mostly uneventful sans the 10 mile back up in the opposite lane near Gaffney, SC. Looked like a tractor-trailer drove off the road, slid along the embankment for several thousand feet before ending up on the side on the right shoulder. Gawkers in my lane made for a 3/4 mile back-up. It also made a great excuse to jump off the interstate for a photo-op with the giant peach water tower. There's a big green leaf on the other side making it look far less like butt cheeks from the opposite direction.

I finally got home after a hot long drive around 7:45pm. The temperature and humidity were higher that it's been all week. I did mange to miss the "Friday afternoon get out of town" traffic in Charlotte, and missed altogether the RTP traffic near home. Guy and Lola were very happy to see me. However, I never can tell if it's me or the fact that I feed them nearly every time I walk in the front door. It was nice to sleep in my own bed, and I do think the felines miss sleeping with me in bed too, even if it doesn't involve kibbles.

Day 8 - 261 Miles

Our day started off by saying goodbye to Loren and Kate, they had a deadline to get their rental bike back to Richmond. The Brits too; David, Brenda, Lucy and Henry left as well, only the day after finally getting the second chase van replaced with one that actually started. We set off to Deals Gap to ride a particularly twisted section of US 129: 318 curves in 11 miles. Not long after we took off, we stopped and turned around to find Michael stopped with some clutch problem. We left him in the care of Rob and Scott in the other chase van, and headed towards Deals Gap.

We stopped at the Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort after a few turns in for a souvenir stop and for the amusement of the Tree of Shame. This clearly is the destination for all two wheeled vehicles, and the tree is for all those bits and pieces of bikes that split up upon impact with a tree or ditch.

The actual 11 miles of twists and turns is not much different than some of the twisties we've experienced, but just bunched closer together. The speed limit is 30 mph, and one TN State Trooper had a couple of crotch rockets on the side of the road in handcuffs. I felt no need to set any speed records, and surprisingly spent most of the time with no cars or bikes in sight.

The highlight of the day for me was the baby bear on the side of the road on the Dragon's Tail. At first, it looked like a fake bear with his paw lifted, ready to cross the road. My brain quickly connected there were no tacky lawn ornaments on this highway. I slowed down, he broke his steely pose, turned back and ran back in the woods.

We wound up driving back through Marysville to get Jonathan and Sheryl with the sidecar to the Harley dealership. Last night he had a fouled plug and was driving on one cylinder. I gave him a wire brush for the plug and thought the matter was fixed. It wasn't and off we went. This dealership is truly a destination upon itself. Out back there was an outdoor stage with a covered patio, a BBQ shack serving fresh pulled pork sandwiches from the huge hot smoker next to the stage. It was a welcomed respite, even if the bad news about Jonathan's ignition not being manufactured anymore was the source of his problems. No worries however, he rented a bike, several folks shifted two-up and we continued our journey.

We rode towards the Cherohala Skyway, through the Cherokee National Forest towards our final destination of the day: Dahlonega, GA where the Eastern Gold Rush began. I have to say the Cherohala Skyway was one of the most enjoyable rides this entire week. Just the right mix of trees and mountains and curves and streams and vistas.

We got the hotel late, Rob and Scott has scoped out a dinner spot willing to stay open late for us. The Crimson Moon Cafe served up a delectable shrimp and grits, and I saw several other tasty dishes go by. The huge slice of carrot cake Dennis ordered didn't look too shabby either. An acoustic duo was finishing up their last set. We broke out in guffaws when they broke into the the Lumberjack song from Monty Python. The other diners still left at the other tables I guess had never heard the song. More kazoos cheered up the remaining diners and wait staff.

Today's short slide show:

Day 7 - 222 Miles

We shot down I-75 towards Gatlinburg and took a detour through Cades Cove. Its a massive glen atop the mountains. A loop road winds through the park that once was a community. Several old churches and cabins dot the edge of the one way loop through the lush dell atop the Smoky Mountains. The loop road was rough in places, and my cooling fan came on for way too long waiting for the traffic jams. Although the signs clearly request one not to stop on the road for photos, but to use the numerous pulloffs, that didn't seem to faze the several van loads of kids that stopped at nearly every turn. I can't imagine how crowded this must be on a weekend. It did give me ample time to consider what living atop this mountain in the lush green valley would have been like to the early settlers. Several deer sightings as well as a bear crossing the road were the lead causes of the traffic jams.

We did catch a glimpse back on Hwy 321 of three elk munching in a small field by the road on our way to Gatlinburg. We had a late lunch a the first place we found: Smokey's Sports Pub and Grub. They were nice to accomodate the mess of us so late in the day. Some anonymous benefactor picked up the tab for lunch. My bet it was Jonathan. Thanks for the grub, it was tasty after that loop through the cove.

It was so late in the day, we decided to skip the hike a Clingman's Dome and head to Mingus Mill off Hwy 441. We got there just after they closed up for the day, but the outside and the machinery leading to the still working mill was fascinating. I followed the sluice upstream aways, and crossed the stream into the lush forrest. The mist hanging in the air was thick and cool.

Our last leg took us on Hwy 74 to Bryson City for the night. We found Mickey's Pub downtown. It was a gathering place for locals that also welcomed outsiders like ourselves. The bar was covered with brassieres stapled to the wooden structure. After several adult carbonated beverages, Alice, Shelly, and Kacey decided to leave their mark on the bar like so many before them. The bartender had the staple gun ready to go behind the bar, and up all four of them went, standing on the bar. The locals seemed to get a kick as well from the shenanigans.

Todays slide show.

Day 6 - 245 miles

Most of us managed to get to Melaine's in downtown Boone for breakfast. The Eggs Benedict were delicious, and it seems everyone else had a tasty breakfast as well. Our first stop was the Mast General Store in Valle Crusis. I can spend hours in a Lowes or Home Depot, I could spend a week in this old timey blast from the past. The smells and sights are inviting as the candy counter next to the homemade jams and jellies. The clothing and crafts section, as well as the hardware selection really make one feel like they have stepped back in time.

We left Valle Crusis headed towards Roan Mountain State Park in Tennessee. More winding roads lead us higher and higher where the clouds hanging over the mountain tops clung in the valleys. We missed the turn off and drove to the other side of the mountain before turning back and heading up again. Funny enough the parking area at the top was named Cloudview somethingorother. We were totally socked in by clouds swirling around us. Didn't seem to bother the several families grilling out in the parking lot. More kazoos for the kids. Needless to say, we skipped the hike in the park.

We shot on over to Johnson City, TN for lunch before departing for Cumberland Gap. Unfortunately, the skies did not cooperate and the light rain we encountered leaving town turned worse and worse as we got wetter and wetter. After stopping for a particularly heavy downpour with lightning all around us, we decided to head straight to our hotel in Corbin, KY.

After drying off a bit, a Mexican Dinner at El Ranchero was a welcome respite. Even more so since Bill picked up the tab. I expecting a discount, but this was over the top. Thanks Bill.

We were due for freshly baked pie for desert at Moe and Christina's house ( how do they manage to cook and plan these rides is beyond me ) before heading to Cumberland Falls to witness a moonbow: a rainbow in the mist from the light of the moon. Unfortunately, we 'll only get to enjoy pictures, as the clouds did not cooperate. However the pie was to die for. Rhubarb, Cherry, Apple, and Lemonade pie was a treat as well. Thanks Christine.

A short slide show. Laundry time...

Day 5 - 154 miles

Today was not the best day for the Brits. I needed a bit of air for my rear tire, and used my compressor. Michael needed some air too, and he used the compressor, but plugged it in the chase van Brenda and David have rented so not to drain my battery. Unfortunately , the van's battery was nearly flat for some unknown reason. We left the van behind to get fixed up by the rental co.

We all got a bit lost getting got of town, but eventually headed out US 421 south. The signs warned truckers to find an alternate route for the next 22 miles, and for good reason. This has been the most twists and turns so far. I've driven this road many years ago, and several other twisty roads, but this is the first time I've seen roads on my GPS unit looking more like intestines than a curvy road. Its so curvy, there's not warning signs at every curve. So you know when you see a warning sign for 20 mph curve ahead, they really mean it.

We got to Boone, and Moe had managed to eek out a discounted lunch for us. Thanks Moe. We didn't stop for long however, we fueled up and continued on the Blue Ridge Parkway south. Our first stop was Beacon Heights Overlook. A short trail lead to an outcropping stone platform with incredible vistas of the mountains. Our stop there became long winded due to a patrolman deciding to stop Brenda (of David and Brenda from the UK) driving the last chase car. Our quaint customs regarding the proper procedure for a police stop were somewhat lost in translation, and those things customary in England didn't go over too well. Apparently we needed a 'permit' to drive the parkway. She finally talked the patrolman into meeting with Greg at Beacon Heights where it mostly went from bad to worse. We got the full Barney Fife story later in the evening.

We wound our way to Linville Falls, and took a short hike up to the several viewing areas of the falls. It was steep in a few places, but a good workout after eating way too much for lunch. The trail through the lush forest did little to muffle the sound of water crashing down the falls. I was expecting to see some wildlife towards the end of the trail, but only saw delicate flowers peeping through the low lying foliage.

We wound way back towards Boone where Greg and Alice managed to host a delicious Mexican feast for the more than 30 of us at their home in Boone. I'm not sure how they managed to pull that off being on the road for the last four days, but it was a treat. Thanks, it was awesome.

Slideshow:

Day 4 - 167 Miles

The day started out dreary with rain, and reports of flash flooding in the direction we planned to travel were dismal. We decided to sandbag for a few hours until most of the rain had passed. Time for a less than spectacular breakfast at IHOP, but nonetheless better than the continental breakfast at the hotel. Rather than a scenic journey towards Abingdon, VA, we took the direct route on I-81. We still passed through several showers, but the worst part was behind us. Joseph seemed to have solved his starter shorting out problems, and made the journey with us.

Our destination was the Barter Theatre, one of the oldest continually operating LORT D theatres in the country. Lunch was provided in the Barter Theatre Cafe compliments of CM Hoist Manufacturing. Several folks got tickets to see The Wizard of Oz, and the rest of us got the grand tour of the scenic, property, and costume shops, as well as several smaller venues, and rehearsal halls. One of our riders, Michael, was a carpenter at the Barter in the late 70's. I could see the joyful look in his eye, reminiscing about old times.

Dinner tonight was an old fashioned pig picking with Moe's Mom and Dad in Bristol, VA. For those not in the know, a 'pig picking' is a whole or half pig roasted slowly over open coals for 10-14 hours. The meat just falls off the bones, and usually before it's all said and done, a crowd gathers around the carcass and picks off tender, juicy bits, or crunches on the crispy skin.

The back yard drops off down to a glen where the feast was laid out. The bucolic landscape spread to adjoining field with cows and horses munching on grass. The property is bordered with thorny blackberry bushes dripping with plump berries. Moe's Dad spent the last two days picking blackberries for a scrumptious cobbler. It was still warm, and the ice cream slowly melted into the buttery crust. An awesome end to our day.

Today's short slide show:

Day 3 - 352 Miles

Today was an early start, although kickstands at 7:00am turned into more like 7:20am, sort of like scooter time. We left Richmond heading west on I-64. Joseph has been blowing fuses on his starter, and the local Harley shop will get him in to take a look. Dennis and Frank will stay behind and meet up at the hotel tonight.

A thick mist hangs in the air, and visibility becomes more difficult when we head north on US 522. The slower speeds make it harder to clear my face shield. The sun barely cuts through the mist, leaving a spooky feel to the rolling fields and farms along the gently twisting two lane.

After a few stops to take on and release fuel, we finally get to the start of Skyline Drive, a twisty curvy highway along the ridge of the Shenandoah Mountains. The winding road has a speed limit of 35 mph, and in some places its obvious why. The sunlight peeking through the tree covered road makes a mosaic on the road making it difficult to distinguish the bumps and cracks from the shadows.

We've split in two groups. I'm taking the detour to Luray Caverns, the other group will continue on the 100 or so miles of Skyline drive towards Fisherville, our lunch destination. These caverns are huge. I've toured caverns in NC, TN and Bermuda, and this by far is the largest. Also makes for huge crowds, and I sort of miss the tour guide, now that they use self-guided headsets. I tried my hand at photos without the use of flash, or a tripod, shaky, but OK. The highlight I think is the The Great Stalacpipe Organ. A custom console that actuates rubber mallets, via solenoids on stalagmites to produce a complete range of tones like a pipe organ.

We were treated to lunch by the Fisherville Methodist Church. BBQ and homemade potato and macaroni salad were a welcome treat after a long morning. The highlight by far was the homemade ice cream. Thanks to Larry "Pastor Disaster" and the rest of the church for lunch.

We continued along the Blue Ridge Parkway towards Roanoke. The ride gave us ample opportunity to take in the vistas from the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Surprisingly there was little traffic. I expected much worse for a weekend. The cooler temperatures at the higher elevations made for an enjoyable afternoon.

Dinner was compliments of Moe and Christine's Uncle Charles and Aunt Anna. They have retired to Roanoke and built a gorgeous and inviting home. It was a great end to a long day driving.

Some slides for today: